Tuesday - August 14

We enjoyed our day in Twillingate on Notre Dame Bay….scenic old fishing village oozing with charm and character!     Started off exercising – 61 and breezy.    Didn’t get that much warmer rest of the day and very windy on the higher elevations!    Went to RJs for breakfast and then set out to explore the area.   First stop was the Newfoundland Chocolate Company….bought some delicious goodies and had nice visit with the manager, Anna who is from Maine, but in May opened this store (original opened in St. John’s, NL 4 years ago and doing very well winning many awards.)    Then to the Auk Island Winery (nothing better than wine and chocolate, right)?   Neat place – bought a few gifts and on our way!    Tuesdays must be wash/laundry day here as clothes were a’flappin’ in the breeze at many of the homes.  

We drove to Crow Head – more pretty views on North Twillingate Island.   Anna had told us they have the best coffee at the Crow’s Nest, so…..went into this cute little place for a late morning treat of cookie/coffee for Mark and muffin/tea for me – very good!    The views are stunning all over – also had driven to Durrell which is another little village on Twillingate.

Took lots of pictures today “trying” to capture the beauty of this rugged, oh-so-pretty area….

Along the shoreline of Crow Head

Long Point Lighthouse

 

The Rock at Twillingate

 Tranquil Twillingate

Interesting menu....will be trying some of this cuisine sometime soon!

This wooden container is for their garbage to keep away from pesky crows and the occasional bear.   Every home has one!

Pretty blooms in Twillingate

Pat's Chip Wagon.....we Nomads could take this "on the road" and make a little extra $.....but that would involve cooking, so....most likely not happening!!!

We had 2 choices tonight for some more Newfie culture.....the dinner theater in Crow Head which came highly recommended - great acting, music and food!   But also, heard great reviews about the Split Peas, local musical group who perform Tuesdays and Thursdays.   So, since we had ribs/chicken leftovers from Sunday night, decided to eat on Daisy and then check out the Split Peas....

Well....the Split Peas were delightful and very entertaining - these 7 women who've been performing together for 19 years played to a packed Touton House tonight!    Great singing, humor and talent on various instruments (guitars, accordions, piano, tambourine, maracas, etc).   At intermission, they served tea and toutons (fried dough that can be topped with molasses (Mark); syrup or partridge berry jam (me) - yummy!!!

Sat with some really nice folks from Ontario and Halifax.    Just one other couple there from the US....Texas and they are in the Peyton's Woods RV Park with us.   Folks were  from England, Germany and almost all the provinces of Canada.

Monday - August 13

Rainy Monday morning so after breakfast we took off and will exercise later or tomorrow?     We are coming up Route 1 along the coast.   Newfoundland/Labrador are huge and if they were in the US, would rank 4^th in size behind Alaska, Texas and California.    There are no roads going thru the center of the island as it’s mountainous and rugged with many lakes.    The main source of income is fishing, so everyone settled along the coastline, thus no roads inland.   So, we are traveling along the east coast, north coast and will come down the west coast.     Although we see signs for B and B’s, inns, resorts, golf courses, etc., they are off the main roads and well secluded with long distances between towns.    

It rained most of the trip from a light mist to heavy downpour and lots of water standing on the highway.   

Threatening sky and rain, rain and more rain most of the day

  Tah dah….we saw our first moose just standing alongside the road.   Signs are all along Route 1 warning of moose sightings.

We stopped in Gander for lunch and also curious as to details about what we had heard from Judy (Brooke’s Mom) regarding the many planes (38) making an emergency landing here on 9/11.   And then the WONDERFUL hospitality the Newfies showed the passengers for three days while all air traffic was suspended.   Our waitress at Lilly’s Landing said “Absolutely, that’s how it was and just crazy as Gander doubled in size (their population is 10,000) and school buses shuttled passengers into town or they walked as the airport was just 10 minutes away.    The citizens went all out opening their homes and hearts during this very sad, scary time.   There are several articles on the internet about this uplifting story - thanks for sharing, Judy!

Gosh….today our Brady had 1^st grade orientation and tomorrow, he and his brothers start the new school year     Liam and Connor start the 22^nd.

We arrived in Twillingate around 4:30 and it was raining big time!    We are at the Peyton’s Woods RV Park.     Glad to be settled – not a fun day for Mark driving in rain, fog, sloshing water on the roads, etc.!   UGH

We check online for all the suggested things to do and "must sees" when we come into a new town and here in Twillingate, they have lots of entertainment and all received great reviews.  Tonight we decided a little Newfoundland culture was in order, so we went to the production of "The Shipwreck of the Schooner Begonia" at Cameron Hall.     Beforehand we drove around Twillingate and had an ice cream cone from Mr. and Mrs. Scoops (good homemade stuff)!   And then to this fun musical with 6 cast members (2 juniors, 2 seniors and 2 college freshmen).    All the little towns put on summer theater productions each year.   There were around 40 people in the audience and we all enjoyed the performance!

Sunday - August 12

Misty rain and cool this morning as we went to 9:00 Mass at St. Teresa's.    We drove out in the country and along the way we found "The Irish Loop Coffee House" where we had a good breakfast along with Irish music overlooking

 Witless Bay.

   

 Since we arrived in Newfoundland (NL) we've seen so much Fireweed which is

everywhere in Alaska!

 

Fireweed

Bay Bulls (not sure why it's not Bulls Bay?) is where we boarded the catamaran, "Gatheralls Puffin and Whale Watching".    We saw thousands of birds on Gull Island - love those sweet little puffins which we first saw in Alaska.

A few puffins up close

Tons of murres which resemble small penguins

Unfortunately we did not see one single whale.    Gatheralls does 4 cruises per day and yesterday, each cruise did see whales.   We were on the 2nd cruise today and zilch!    It is the end of the 10-week period when the whales spend time here eating

 ONE TON of food per day!!!

Cruising on a Sunday afternoon

Drove thru some scenic little towns and old fishing villages - so much hilly, rocky terrain.    We went to Cape Spear which is the most easterly working lighthouse and point of land in North America.    Several lighthouses (square, rectangle, etc.) have been in operation thru the years on this site, but the present one was dedicated on June 24, 1983 by the Prince and Princess of Wales (Charles and Diana).

Cape Spear

Back to St. John's and drove back thru the historic district where we were yesterday - no matter where you are in this town, the views are just spectacular!   The sun came out late this afternoon - yeah!!!

 The houses in this area are mostly covered with vinyl siding (very little brick).    And their siding is quite colorful.....instead of the basic shades of tan, beige, khaki, etc.,like we have back home, here they use barn red, dark green, dark grey,  blues or deep khaki.    Very attractive...and they have lots of row houses...

Colorful row houses

We've enjoyed St. John's, but looking forward to more remote areas, visiting with the locals and picturesque countryside! 

Friday-Saturday, August 10-11

Friday - Woke up to some fog but that quickly cleared away, we exercised and after breakfast headed over to the Fortress of Louisbourg.    This fort from the 18^th century was a village for 3,000+ people and after the two sieges between the French and the British, the British destroyed the entire compound.    So, 200+ years later….in the 1960’s, after much searching and digging and sorting thru artifacts, etc., the restoration project began.     The fortress was replicated to look like it had in the mid 1700’s and it is quite unbelievable.    Several men, women and children are in costume and take you back to how it was.   We walked all over the grounds, inside the buildings and heard several describe their particular interest or lifestyle.

There are 3 places to enjoy a “period” type of food…..full dinner, ala carte or the bakery.   We chose the ala carte and ate at long trestle tables in front of the fireplace using pewter dishes, mugs, etc.     Mark had the pea soup; I had the fish soup both with bread, rum punch, and then for dessert, he had chocolate cake and I had bread pudding.    Both were totally different than what we’re used to, but good!    It was a delightful experience with the waitresses dressed in costume and we sat with a man and 2 women from British Columbia who are traveling in their RV.

Ready to chow down with our bibs (large dish cloths)

The intricate art of lace making - wow!   An eye-opening experience and great admiration at this skill and all the TIME....

Children depicting long-ago dancing and singing

This afternoon we drove about 35 miles to North Sydney and got in line for the Atlantic Vision (large passenger/vehicle ferry built in 2002) to take us to Argentia, Newfoundland.      We packed a bag for the overnight stay and enjoyed some local music from Newfoundlanders (Newfies) while we waited to board the ferry.  Daisy and Toad were parked on lower level of ferry and our cabin was on the 8^th floor and very nice –  our room had 4 bunk beds (2 could fold up along the wall) 2 closets, bath, desk and good-sized window.   They have a large lounge “Colours” and the name fits the decor!

Colours - place to sit and relax, watch TV, have a drink and watch out the windows

There are 3 areas to eat (formal dining room, buffet or snack center).   There is a gift shop, children’s play center, 2 theater-style seating rooms with movies, internet room (we could not get connected) and on and on!    We had dinner in the dining room – excellent (fresh Atlantic halibut with apple chutney).    Mark was happy they had chocolate volcano cake for dessert with raspberry coulis.    Oh my…….a winner!

This is the 5^th type of “on the water” vessel we’ve experienced this year…….USS Stennis (aircraft carrier), Discovery II (riverboat), Atlantic Vision (ferry). Michael and Brooke’s “Ski Nautique” and of course, Catrina!!!    Such a variety of watercraft!!!

Saturday - After a good night’s sleep, we arrived in Argentia around 9:30 AM – we set the clocks up ½ hour for this new time zone.   

The Atlantic Vision

Here we are...

 I had mentioned that we heard the Newfies were friendly – well, that certainly was the case when we left in Daisy/Toad from the ferry and saw a sign for Tim Horton’s (we did not eat breakfast on the ferry).    We ended up taking a wrong road and stopped and asked an older man for directions (for some reason, it wasn’t on the GPS)?    He then proceeds to have us follow him straight to Tim’s which was a few miles away – how’s that for hospitality – our own personal escort.    The lengths we nomads go to find a good donut….

Stopped at the visitor’s center and got maps, brochures, etc., and good chat with local guide who tells us we will have so much to see and do here in this beautiful province and love it all!     We are in St. John’s (largest city and capital of Newfoundland and Labrador at 197,000) and staying for 2 nights at the Pippy Park Campground.     It’s been in the 60’s and misty rain all morning.

So many lakes and pine trees everywhere and the curvy, winding roads!     Brings back memories of Alaska and all that beauty!   We were surprised that gas prices are less here than Nova Scotia….we paid $5.15 per gallon before coming across on the ferry (280 miles).

After settling in at Pippy’s, we took off for downtown and the waterfront.   St. John’s is very hilly and the streets are each on a different level.    They have many steps leading up to the next street.    After lunch at “Velma’s Place” (actually a late breakfast of fish cakes, eggs, potatoes and toast for Mark and fresh blueberry pancake for me), we walked all over old St. John’s  and came upon George Street.    Unreal with all the pubs…..I asked Mark if he thought the ferry took a wrong turn and we were in Dublin???   Anyway, George Street in St. John’s, Newfoundland  is “Pub Country” big time and I can imagine what a happening place this street is in the evening.   One store had the shirts that said “What happens on George Street….stays on George Street”!!!   Guess we shouldn't be surprised as we've been in some of "The Highland" areas where they play the celtic music, listened to the bagpipers, etc.  

 Having BLT's for supper on Daisy this Saturday evening (been cloudy and cool all day) and planning a whale watching tour for tomorrow!

Thursday - August 9

We left Woodhaven and Halifax around 8:20 this morning.  Mark had gone to “Edible Matters” (just down the road from our park) for delicious muffin and scones.   Had some fog as we traveled towards Louisbourg.    After some shorter days and stopovers, today we traveled 277 miles.   BIG day for us!

Meant to tell you that on Tuesday when we were en route to Peggy’s Cove, we saw the memorial for Swiss Air Flight 111 which crashed nearby on September 2, 1998 killing 229 men, women and children traveling from NYC to Geneva, Switzerland.

On one of our stops for gas today, we came across this temporary trailer for Tim Horton’s while a new facility is being built connected to a convenient store.   Of course, it was “break” time so we shared a delicious apple fritter!

Any kind of "Tim Horton" facility works for us!

When I wasn’t oohing and aahing at more picturesque terrain today, I had my nose in the most wonderful book which I finished after we got to Louisbourg…..”The Light between Oceans” by first-time author, M. L. Stedman.   It is excellent and one of the best books I’ve read all summer (and I’ve read a bunch).   Be sure to have plenty of Kleenex close by!     And the fact that I was reading it while we’re seeing so many lighthouses made it extra special!

Scenic view along the way...

Sweet little lighthouse

Arrived in Louisbourg around 2:15 and staying at the Riverdale RV Park.    Mark gave Daisy and Toad a good scrubbing.   I tackled the inside of Daisy + vacuumed Toad.   We did 3 loads of laundry and Mark grilled out hamburgers.   It’s so pretty and peaceful here…small park with just 5 other RV’s tonight.

Tomorrow we are going to tour the Fortress of Louisbourg which sits on the southeast coast of Cape Breton Island.   Then we are off to North Sydney where we will board the ferry tomorrow night at 6 PM for a 16-hour ride to Argentia, Newfoundland.   We plan to stay in this province for 11 days.    Not sure how strong internet will be or if available, but will keep in touch as much as possible!

Enjoy your weekend!